Exploring West Virginia One County At A Time (Part 1 - Eastern Panhandle)

(Part 1 Eastern Panhandle:  Berkeley, Jefferson and Morgan)

I've lived in West Virginia most of my life and never really got to explore all the wonderful hidden gems it has to offer until recently.  I found this great West Virginia Scratch Map by Loving WV and decided to find at least one place to visit in every 55 counties.  This 9 part series will highlight some of these areas that doesn't really get talked about a lot.  Every year, West Virginia has been seeing more and more tourists but they seem to flock to just a few counties.  My goal when starting this project was to write a travel book from a local.  I since changed that to just make the info free to get people or even the local residents to jump in a car and explore everything that makes this state so unique. 

Tips for Traveling Around West Virginia

1. Start looking for a gas station once you hit 100 miles left or a quarter of a tank.  The backroads can go on for miles without seeing a gas station so to be on the safe side, fill it when you can. 

2. Buy a map!  GPS might get you to your location BUT in most areas there is spotty cell service so you might not be able to put in another location to leave the area.  I always travel with these three; map, gps and google step-by-step printed directions. 

3. Bring cash!  Some of the old country places still use cash so don't rely on being able to swipe your card.  

4. Passing!  If you find yourself on a two lane country road, don’t be surprised if you get passed in designated locations.  Don’t be silly and try to speed up to stop someone from passing or they will just tailgate you.  If someone is passing, take your foot off the gas and let them go around.  As for the four-lane, I’ve started noticing a lot of out of state cars like to drive in the pass lane.  This is annoying.  Please pass in the pass lane but get over in right lane as soon as you can so not to block others from passing. 

5. West Virginians are a friendly people.  They have no problem starting up a conversation with a stranger.  It is just how we roll. If you find yourself in trouble, just ask for help and someone will be there to lend a hand. Don't be surprised if your directions sounds something like, "keep going about a mile and turn left at the old red house and right at the barn."

6. Don’t trash our state.  West Virginia has started seeing an uptake in tourists visiting.  With that also brings in bad habits.  If you are camping, please practice “leave no trace” and don’t cut down our trees to build your fire. 

7. Don't pet our wildlife. Don't be surprised to see a black bear on the side of the road or while hiking. Seventy-five percent of West Virginia is Woods so wildlife is everywhere. Be prepared and pay attention while driving. It is common to hit a deer or bear on the roadway which can kill the animal and do some serious damage to your car. These are also WILD animals and should never been a photo op unless done so from a very safe distance. Our snakes are no joke either so stay on the path while visiting.

Berkeley County

Berkeley County was named after Norborne Berkeley, Baron de Botetourt a Colonial Governor of Virginia from 1768 to 1770 or Sir William Berkeley the Governor of Virginia in 1629.  It was established on May 15, 1772 and its county seat is Martinsburg which is where I traveled for this section of West Virginia. 

Some important people from this county would be Victoria “Vicky” Bullett a basketball player who in 1988 and 1992 won the US Gold and Bronze Medals.

Martinsburg Roadhouse

The Martinsburg Roadhouse will be a favorite for any history or railroad fan.  The original roadhouse was completed in 1849 but Confederate General Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson burned it down in 1862 during the campaign against the Baltimore and Ohio railroad company and the Union Army.  It was rebuilt in 1866 and is said to be a rare example of railroad technology. Over the years more was added to the roundhouse; Bridge Shop, Frog and Switch Shop, Blacksmith Shop, Rehabilitation Shop and the Saw House. In 1872, a second roadhouse was built to expand the work but sadly an arsonist destroyed it in 1988.  CSX closed the roundhouse down in 1988. This roadhouse also was where the Great Railroad Strike of 1877 started.  The B&O cut wages to the railroad workers and they went on strike on July 16, 1877, making it the nation’s first nationwide strike.  This started a work stoppage across the United States, not only to include railroad workers but also steelworkers in Pittsburgh.  It came to an end two months later, after President Hayes sent in Federal troops and the wage cut was cancelled. Today you can take seasonal tours between May-October. 

Jefferson County

Jefferson County was named after Thomas Jefferson who was the third President of the United States and author of the Declaration of Independence.  It was established on October 26, 1801 and its county seat is Charlestown. For this county visit I went to the famous Harper Ferry's.

Main street on Harper's Ferry filled with shops

I would say Harpers Ferry is one of the most popular tourist place to visit in this area. It is very close to Maryland and Virginia with Washington, DC just a short train ride away. It is historically known for when abolitionist John Brown led a raid on the Harpers Ferry Armory to start a slave rebellion on October 16, 1859.  He was captured, tried and executed by the Commonwealth of Virginia.

John Brown's Fort

Peter Stephens first squatted on this land in 1733. Some time later, a traveler named Robert Harper, came through and saw the potential and paid Stephens 30 guineas (equivalent to $31.58 today) for his squatting rights to the ferry. Later in 1751, Harper purchased 126 acres of land from the rightful owner, Lord Fairfax.  In 1796, the federal government purchased the land and a railroad was built in 1833.  Today, it is a stop on the Capitol Limited Amtrak which runs from Chicago, IL to Washington, DC.  Thomas Jefferson visited Harpers Ferry on October 25, 1783 and was quoted as saying, “This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic.”  George Washington proposed Harpers Ferry as the new armory in 1794.  

 

Today it is a small little town filled with historical places to visit, eat or shop.  We took a day trip here, arriving early in the morning to try and beat the heat. Parking can be an issue so we decided to park at the Visitor's Center and take a shuttle into Harpers Ferry for a small fee per car.   We dined at The Rabbit Hole Gastropub and I had the 11oz Cajun seasoned Beer Battered Haddock with fries, hush puppies and coleslaw. It was amazing. My son got the 1/2 lb. angus cheddar burger which he said was just as good. We sat outside on a perfect day enjoying the breeze on their back deck which gives you a nice view of the train station. They also offer over 100 craft beers to choose from. After lunch we enjoyed shopping at True Treats Historic Candy for some old fashioned treats among other places as well as taking in all the historical buildings you can explore. 

Town's Inn

We also got to see Town’s Inn which was featured in Gordon Ramsey’s Hotel Hell TV show (Season 3, episode 3-4). You can book a room if you want to stay in the heart of Harpers Ferry.  There is a lot of walking so be prepared for that and it can be pretty steep in places.  If you have time, take one of the amazing hikes to get a breathtaking area view of the city or just walk to the water and enjoy the peace and beauty this area has to offer. 

Morgan County

Morgan County was named after General Daniel Morgan who was an American Revolutionary War Soldier.  It was established in February 1820 and its county seat is Berkeley Springs which is where I decided to visit. 

Some important people from this county would be Beirnes Lay, Jr a US Army Aviator who helped collaborate on the novel Twelve O'clock High which was also turned into a movie; Tom Netherton a singer known for his tenure on The Lawrence Welk Show; and James Rumsey an early inventor of the steamboat.

This area is known for its "magical water." In 1748, George Washington (just 16 at the time) first surveyed the area and was said to return many times, with his brother Lawrence, in hopes the warm healing mineral spring water would improve his health. 

Berkeley Springs, also known as the first public spa dating back to 1756, was a favorite place of George Washington. You can even visit the “bathtub” said to be used by George Washington himself. Warm spring water, flowing at a constant 74.3 degrees, runs through the park which you can enjoy wading in on a hot day. You can also find the Old Roman Bathhouses still in operation with spa services today. This little city is home of Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting, the longest-run event of its kind in the world as well as the Apple Butter Festival. After cooling off you can walk around town and enjoy some of their many shops or grab a bite to eat.

My kiddo is a pizza lover so we hit up Mythical Pizza.  Not only was the food amazing but my salad was the best I have ever had. I also LOVED the way you order. Instead of a waitress, there are two screens that you order and pay at. I got to customize my salad with just the items I love and it was big enough to feed a family of 4 for $13. The whole place was just really cool from the video games to the decor.

Overall this area is great to explore and learn about history. There is so much more you can do here but these are only a few highlights to get you started on making your own plans to visit. The one hour drive from Berkely Springs to Harpers Ferry was just beautiful with views of the mountains and passing through some small towns along the way which you will want to stop and explore as well.

If you want to learn about the other 8 areas of West Virginia, you can find a link here. I have also created a few YouTube videos that goes with this series.

Part 2 - Potomac Highlands: Grant, Hampshire, Hardy, Mineral, Pendleton, Pocahontas, Randolph and Tucker

Part 3 -

Part 4 -

Part 5 -

Part 6 -

Part 7 -

Part 8 -

Part 9 -

YouTube - Exploring West Virginia One County At A Time

YouTube - Malden to Belle, A West Virginia Historical Tour

YouTube - The Historic Itmann Company Store in Itmann, West Virginia